After a discussion in a LiveJournal community, I’ve noticed people are very confused regarding exfoliation and microdermabrasion.  Especially when it comes to what microdermabrasion does.

a⋅bra⋅sion

Pronunciation [uh-brey-zhuhn]

1. a scraped spot or area; the result of rubbing or abrading: abrasions on his leg caused by falling on the gravel.
2. the act or process of abrading.

a⋅brade

Pronunciation [uh-breyd]

1. to wear off or down by scraping or rubbing.
2. to scrape off.

(Definitions taken from Dictionary.com)

What is microdermabrasion, anyway?

Microdermabrasion is an effective way to remove scars caused by injury or acne, fine wrinkles, sunspots and flaky skin by exfoliating the top layers of skin.  Yes, it removes your uppermost layers of skin.  While microdermabrasion can cause some pain and irritation, it’s great for removing that dead skin cells and can seriously help with scarring.  Think of it, if you have a mole removed somewhere and have a scar, microdermabrasion can help.  It also promotes cell regeneration by stimulating the skin.  After you remove the superficial layers of skin, the new layers of skin are revealed.

What do they use to do microdermabrasion?

Small crystals of aluminum oxide are used to “abrade the stratum corneum” (or remove the uppermost layers of skin).  Don’t worry, they’re safe, non carcinogenic, and haven’t been known to cause any adverse skin reactions.

Does a microdermabrasion procedure hurt?

You shouldn’t really experience pain, but you can definitely feel it.  The delicate areas around the eyes will be the most sensitive to the treatment.  Redness after the procedure is completely normal.  I find it’s not particularly comfortable to have the procedure done, but the results are very welcome!

What can I expect after microdermabrasion?

After a microdermabrasion treatment, you shouldn’t wear make up for the first couple of days.  The newly exposed skin will be very sensitized, and you don’t want to make it worse!  Also avoid sun contact as your skin will be more susceptible to burns and irritation following the procedure.

Who would you recommend receives microdermabrasion?

Anyone.  Many people who are sensitive to chemical peels and chemical exfoliation do not have the same side effects when receiving microdermabrasion, yet the results are the same.

Please keep in mind that:

This procedure can get costly, but it’s worth it.  It is recommended to go in once every 2-3 months for treatments, and sometimes more frequently in the beginning depending on your skin.  Using a gentle daily exfoliant between treatments is fine (I am personally partial to the St Ives, I very gently rub it on my face to remove any flakiness I have.  Dermalogica also has a wonderful daily microfoliant.  Use what works for you or what your esthetician or dermatologist recommends.  Ask for samples!), and welcome to keep your results looking fresh.  Be sure to follow your at home care instructions for the few days following the procedure so as not to injure your skin.  Whoever performs the procedure may even send you home with specific products to use that won’t irritate your skin (cleansers, moisturizers, etc).  If you’re looking for quick and definite results, microdermabrasion is for you!

Don’t be scared of being slightly sore and red.  It’s normal for the first few hours after the procedure, and the redness of course will go down!

Have you ever had microdermabrasion?  Who performed the procedure?  What did you think of the procedure itself, and the results?

Mineral oil and other petroleum derived products have been a target in the whole “natural vs organic” campaign that companies are using to sell their products.  And for some reason, they’re not on the natural side.  Companies are claiming mineral oil is harmful, and how you should avoid competitor’s products due to the fact it contains this material that is a natural component of the earth.

There have been a number of claims that mineral oil is a comedogenic product (please keep in mind there is no regulaton on what makes a product comedogenic or non-comedogenic, or even hypoallerginic.  This is definitely something to keep in mind when researching claims on a product — any product can boast such claims).  I myself use baby oil every night to remove my make up — baby oil is glorified mineral oil with added vitamins and on occassion fragrance to keep skin moisturized.

What is the purpose of mineral oil?

Mineral oil is a humectant — it binds moisture to the skin to keep it hydrated.

It is said that mineral oil suffocates the skin causing break-outs; but isn’t that what a good antioxident is supposed to do, keep air off skin?  Keeping air off skin is NOT suffocating it!  How does free-radical damage work?  Oxygen causes free-radical damage, and just because it’s protecting your skin does not mean you are suffocating it.  Actually, according to Cosmetics & Toiletries, January 2001, page 79; Cosmetic Dermatology, September 2000, pages 44–46, cosmetic grade mineral oil and petroleum are considered the safest, most non-irritating moisturizing ingredients ever found!

Mineral oil has many different properties that make it essential to using as a moisturizer, one of those being its anti-inflammatory properties.  It helps to reduce irritation and redness on your skin, making it an excellent moisturizer for those suffering from skin conditions such as eczema.

Mineral oil is found in many cosmetics (especially anti-aging and moisturizing foundations, as well as almost all baby products), as well as pretty much any make up remover you can find on the market today.  I highly recommend you look at your cosmetics.  Grab any make up removers especially, and just take a look.  Do you see propylene glycol on your list?  It is the scientific name for mineral oil.  And is found in concentrations of up to 50% in many skincare products, especially lotions!  I guarantee you have mineral oil in something that you own that is already working for you.

The biggest argument against mineral oil is that it is derived from petroleum (AKA crude oil).  They make it sound like we are taking gasoline straight from the pump and putting it on our face, stating that it may contain harmful components.  The fact of the matter is, is every cosmetic-grade ingredient is purified to certain expectations — mineral oil and other petroleum derived cosmetic-grade ingredients have little, if anything, in common with crude oil other than that is where it came from.  It happens to go through a similar purification process other natural components go through in order to be safe and suitable for either ingestion, or use on skin.

Only making it sillier, is the fact that even oils such as jojoba oil would be bad and dangerous for your skin until it is purified to make it cosmetic-grade.  In studies, these plant-derived oils also do not bind moisture to the skin as readily as mineral oil does.  No oil irritates skin less, or works as well as mineral oil.  Anyone who studies cosmetic chemistry and reads studies published in the Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists knows this to be true.

“Mineral oils are manufactured from crude oils by vacuum distillation to produce a residual oil that is further refined. The related petroleum jelly is a purified mixture of semi-solid, saturated hydrocarbons obtained from the residue of distillation left in the still after all the oil has been vaporised. Paraffin wax is a crystalline substance obtained by distillation and purified by sweating. Similar purification principles applicable to white oil apply to food/cosmetic grades of these items. Aromatic compounds, including alkylated heterocyclic and polycyclic hydrocarbons are the only seriously undesirable constituents of these crude oil petroleum products, based on their carcinogenic potential following chronic industrial exposure to poorly refined oils. ‘White mineral’ oils/paraffins, petrolatums/petroleum jellies and paraffin waxes produced from crude oils that have undergone appropriate treatment, are not toxic or carcinogenic to humans (Mineral Oils, IARC Monograph, Vol 33, 1984); (Mineral Oils, IARC Monograph, Suppl.7, 1987/1998).” (6)

Did you know next to other humectants in standard safety tests, less people have an allergic reaction to mineral oil over any other humectant?  Safest moisture-binding agent around!

There are loads of cosmetic ingredients that are derived from horrible sounding natural substances, but are perfectly safe for your skin.  The FDA does look at skin concerns, and if a specific ingredient is thought to be not-safe for use (such as those silly rumors that it causes cancer as a carcinogen), the FDA will, and has, banned ingredients that fit this bill.  (And to those who like to throw things out there, check cancer.gov, seeing as the Cancer Society of America will put the results to tests up and most of these things people are telling me cause cancer, actually have been proven time and time again to not do such a thing.)

Ah, “organic” companies slamming mineral oil, a natural (although un-renewing) resource.  I do have high hopes, however, that we may at least be able to re-create mineral oil in a chemical lab, though I don’t really see our dependency on petroleum to be eliminated any time in the very near future — much to my dismay.

Scientific Facts!: (these are always fun)

People think that because mineral oil is derived from petroleum that it is automatically bad, however more than 50% of cosmetics ingredients are as well!  As long as the mineral oil is purified (making it cosmetic-grade), it is safe for use.

Salt is an example of an ingredient that comes from a horrible source, yet makes a perfectly safe substance — to eat even! Table salt is sodium chloride (a compound of sodium and chloride), but salt doesn’t have the caustic properties of chloride (a form of chlorine) or the unstable explosiveness of sodium. It is a completely different compound with the harmful properties of neither of its components.  Thanks, Paula

Mineral oil does not keep collagen products from absorption.  The molecules in collagen moisturizers are too large to be absorbed anyway, regardless of whether or not you have mineral oil on  your face.

To everyone.  I highly recommend you read my sixth source, as it cites all information in the article.

1. http://www.cosmeticscop.com/skin-care-facts-mineral-oil-safety-nonirritating-moisturizer.aspx
2. http://www.cosmeticsdesign.com/Formulation-Science/Mineral-oil-will-not-cause-skin-outbreaks-report-claims
3. http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=922
4. http://futurederm.wordpress.com/2007/12/21/is-mineral-oil-really-bad-for-your-skin/
5. http://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/25025.php
6. http://www.gaiaresearch.co.za/mineralvsplantoil.html

I’ve seen a lot of people be misinformed regarding skincare, skintypes, and what foundations are good for that particular skintype.

Our skintype is pre-determined by genetics, and our environment.  It’s not something we can really change; it’s not the same as a skin condition (IE: dehydrated skin, problematic skin) — you can’t just switch up products and change the way your skin functions.  It’s unfortunate, but it’s true.  I’ll most likely be talking about Bioelements products simply because they’re developed and great for anyone.  I have sensitive skin and have tried nearly every single product and have never had an irritation issue.  I love their stuff!

First, let’s start with dry skin.  People automatically put dry skin with aging skin, which is not necessarily the case.  Dry skin is no more prone to wrinkles than oily skin (more on this later).  For a good foundation for dry skin, I recommend an emollient rich foundation.  You’ll want something that has more of a “satin” or “radiant” finish as opposed to a matte finish, which will have a tendancy to accentuate your dryness.  Cream foundations are excellent for this, and anti-aging foundations are usually good just because they contain some great moisturizing ingredients.  You’ll also want a richer, creamier moisturizer.  For cleansers, always ones geared towards sensitive skin.  I cannot press this enough.  I’m not a huge fan of cream cleansers — sorry guys!  I always end up breaking out because they don’t clean my face well enough.
Bioelements Sensitive Skin Cleanser
Bioelements Flash Foam Cleanser
Bioelements Calmitude Hydrating Solution (this is the only toner aside from Witch Hazel from Wal-Mart that I actually like).
Bioelements Calmitude Sensitive Skin Moisturizer (great for really sensitive skin, lightweight but it does the job!)
Bioelements Crucial Moisture (if you have VERY dry skin, this is for you)
Bioelements Absolute Moisture (if you have normal/combination skin this is great)
Olay Sensitive Skin Cleanser
Olay Sensitive Skin Moisturizer SPF 15

Next, oily skin!  A common misconception with oily skin is that you are more prone to breakouts, blackheads, and white heads.  Again, this is completely untrue.  Oily skin just means you have over-active sebaceous (oil) glands that make your face feel slicker, and look shinier.  When you’re looking for a cleanser, get an oil based cleanser.  I know what you’re thinking, “but mL, I’m already oily!  Why would I want more oil on my face?”  The answer is simple — if you take a garment with an oil stan to a dry cleaners, they’re going to use another oil to clean it out.  Oil is not water soluble, so using an oil to clean it off is excellent!  I know, it sounds completely weird, right?  You’ll also want more of a gel-based or light-weight moisturizer, and definitely an oil-free foundation.
Bioelements Sensitive Skin Cleanser
Bioelements Flash Foam Cleanser
Bioelements Decongestant Cleanser
Bioelements Calmitude Hydrating Solution (this is the only toner aside from Witch Hazel from Wal-Mart that I actually like).
Bioelements Calmitude Sensitive Skin Moisturizer (great for really sensitive skin, lightweight but it does the job!)
Bioelements Beyond Hydration Moisturizer (a gel based moisturizer for you oily guys and gals)
Bioelements Absolute Moisture (if you have normal/combination skin this is great)
Olay Sensitive Skin Cleanser
Olay Sensitive Skin Moisturizer SPF 15

Normal skin — you’re all very lucky.  You can wear and use nearly any product.  I always recommend skincare that is geared more towards sensitive skin types — we should all treat our skin as though it is sensitive to keep it from being sensitized to the outside elements.  Any of the above products would work for you!  Again, the Bioelements Calmitude/Sensitive Skin line would be my best recommendation, but for a less expensive product get the stuff from Olay and some witch hazel from the drugstore for a toner!

If your skin is dehydrated (drier, but not usually this dry), the elements are most likely taking a toll on your skin!  You need anti-oxidents and sensitive skin formulated skincare to take care of this issue, it will help relieve the dehydration and build a barrier between your skin and the elements.  The Bioelements Calmitude/Sensitive Skin line is great for this.  For a less expensive product get the stuff from Olay and some witch hazel from the drugstore for a toner (yes, I repeat myself frequently).

If your skin is acne-prone, you’ll want a topical acne treatment.  There are so many things you can use to treat your acne; and I prefer spot treatments.  You don’t want to put it all over your face to cause irritation.  Avoid products with benzoyl peroxide, it can make you more sensitive to the sun and light.  Ouch!  Make sure you always wash your make up off, and clean your brushes that you use regularly so you aren’t continuously applying bacteria to your face.  Another thing that we don’t think of much is to wash your pillow cases every 3-4 days!  You’re rubbing bacteria on that sucker every night, get some extras and make sure you swap ‘em out so that it’s nice and clean, you’ll notice a difference in the amount of break outs — I promise!
Bioelements Decongestant Cleanser (can be a little drying, but wow does it clear up your face!)
Tea Tree Oil (you can get this at almost any drugstore, use it as a spot treatment)
Murad Acne Spot Treatment

Go foundation shopping and make sure to request a two-week sample of foundation.  You need to make sure that there’s nothing in the product you’re allergic to, that the match is good, and that it’s what you’re looking for in a product.  Places in your local Macy’s, Nordstrom’s, and even Sephora and Ulta will allow sampling of the products — they want you to like it!  Returns are never good for commission, so they really want you to be happy with the product.  I want you to go out and try the foundations that you like and report back!

What products do I use?  The Bioelements Decongestant Cleanser and Calmitude moisturizer and toner line It’s literally saved my skin!  I use Tea Tree Oil as a spot treatment for break outs, and it’s a miracle!

Don’t forget to wash your make up off at night.  My staple is some inexpensive baby oil from the drugstore.  I know, I know, it sounds gross, but it gets off waterproof make up!  Plus if you get the one with vitamin E, you get a great antioxident!  Can’t beat those antioxidents.  I have super combination skin, and no it doesn’t make me oilier, or make me break out, but it sure does clean off my make up without me having to wash my face, and it moisturizes without me having to put on more moisturizer.

PLEASE ALWAYS TAKE OFF YOUR MAKE UP PRIOR TO SLEEPING! We all forget sometimes, but we should really all try to remember!  Your skin will be a happier skin.  I promise!

I know people who have no issues with this ingredient which is used by many major mineral cosmetic companies — some people wear it and love it to death, while others (including myself) get an itching, burning rash, and sometimes even bleeding or cystic acne.

The issue that is in mineral cosmetics that can cause such a problem is called bismuth oxychloride.  Bismuth oxychloride is made of three separate elements.  The first is bismuth, which rests nicely on the periodic table inbetween arsenic and atimony; it’s number 83 and has the obvious abbreviation of Bi (if you wanted to go look it up).  Once bismuth is harvested, it then goes through several refining processes to remove extra dangerous elements -such as lead- and is then chlorinated, giving us bismuth chloride.  This chemical compound smells like hydrochloric acid.  After this process, the bismuth chloride is mixed with water, replacing some of the chloride atoms with oxygen from the water.  The result?  Bismuth oxychloride.  (Bismuth oxychloride is not a natural occurring element, which makes it silly to call it organic when in reality, the process it takes to get to its end result is far from natural.)

Bismuth oxychloride comes in two forms, crystalline and pearl.  Crystalline bismuth oxychloride will give you that “natural glow” appearance in your mineral cosmetics, and the pearl will give you a more matte finish.  Obviously, most companies tend to use the crystalline form just because they really do want to give you that natural glow.

The problem with crystalline bismuth oxychloride is that it can cause severe irritation.  When you buff it into the skin, you are buffing these teeny little crystals into your pores, which scratches delicately at your skin, and causes cystic acne.  Not to mention, an increasing number of women are allergic to it — upwards of 75% of users will develop an allergy before three years of use, while the argument of Bare Minerals is that women have allergies and reactions to preservatives in cosmetics (which are called unnatural, whilst one of their ingredients is also unnatural), less than 5% of women in studies show any reaction to preservatives (sad, yes?).  And to think, all preservatives do is keep our cosmetics from having an experation date.

We must also remember that our bodies try to purge and reject anything that’s bad from it.  If we ingested arsenic, our bodies would go through a series of painful processes in attempt to rid itself of the toxin (though, we would most likely die in the process).  Since the skin is the body’s largest organ, it’s safe to assume that it would do the same with ingredients such as bismuth oxychloride.

It is a common ingredient in many products for the face, eyes, lips and nails.  It is an extremely inexpensive filler, making it great for companies who don’t want to spend more money on more expensive minerals.

“Bismuth oxychloride is considered a skin irritant and can cause itching and rashes and in large amounts it can cause cystic acne as well – it’s one of the ingredients you should try to avoid if you have acne or rosacea or sensitive skin,” says Frew, who also reminds us that some products in a line have this ingredient, while others do not. “Some products also contain very little, so it doesn’t act like an irritant, but you won’t know until you try it.”

I had to quit my job at Ulta because of bismuth oxychloride — after a shift at work as a prestige cosmetics consultant, my hands would either be red, irritated and itching; or literally bleeding.  My future sister-in-law had unbelievable cystic acne caused by the ingredient, and that’s coming from a board certified dermatologist who spent three months with her undoing the damage the product caused.  Another girl I went to school with within two weeks of using, it was making her sensitive skin bleed.

If you love mineral make up, my suggestion is to check your ingredient listing.  Bismuth oxychloride can also be used for pigmentation, but there are plenty of cosmetics companies that either do not include it, or in the ingredients -down at the very bottom- it says “may include” followed by bismuth oxychloride — these products would be your best, and safest bet.

SOURCES:
1. http://potency.berkeley.edu/chempages/BISMUTH%20OXYCHLORIDE.html
2. http://ezinearticles.com/?Bismuth-Oxychloride-in-Mineral-Makeup&id=1514493
3. http://community.qvc.com/topic/Beauty-Dilemmas/Worried-Bismuth-Oxychloride/4000042048
4. http://reviews.ebay.com/Watch-out-for-Bismuth-Oxychloride_W0QQugidZ10000000001831889?ssPageName=BUYGD:CAT:-1:LISTINGS:1
5. http://www.makeuptalk.com/forums/f148/mineral-makeup-bismuth-oxychloride-56080.html
6. http://www.webmd.com/skin-beauty/features/the-lowdown-on-mineral-makeup
7. http://www.carefreebeauty.eu/sensitiveskin/bismuth
8. http://www.isnare.com/?aid=345426&ca=Womens+Interest

Mineral foundations that do not (or most likely do not except in certain colors and in very small, non-irritating doses) include bismuth oxychloride:
1. Everyday Minerals
2. Nixie Matte Loose Mineral Foundation
3. Jane Iredale
4. Mary Kay
5. Beauty From The Earth
6. MAC Cosmetics (I spent nearly 20 minutes on the phone waiting for the rep to figure this one out for you guys I was so happy to see that they don’t!)
7.  Afterglow Cosmetics

Do you know of any other mineral cosmetics that do not contain the skin irritant bismuth oxychloride?  Please e-mail them to me at molly.loretta@gmail.com!