This is a question I get asked consistently when I’m working on other faces, or answering questions via e-mail (which I do regularly, so if you have a question, be sure to hit me an e-mail at molly.loretta@gmail.com, I promise to answer!).

I figure, why not answer here?

I don’t want to get slapped for saying this, but….

I think foundation primer is 100% optional.

Foundation primer really helps to smooth out the skin for application, and while I do find that it smooths the skin and I use less foundation…. I also feel like around the general problem areas (the t-zone), that it gets oily FASTER, as well as the foundation tends to WEAR OFF. I think it’s good on cheeks, and I do think there are some great primers out there (Like Make Up For Ever’s All Mat or Smashbox Photo Finish Light, I haven’t tried it on myself more than the back of my hand, but I’m sure Urban Decay’s Pore Perfecting Complexion Primer Potion should work fabulously as well), I just don’t think they’re necessary.

Not to mention, many foundations are silicone based now, or at the very least have silicones in them.  If they have silicones in them, it’s already going to help with application and wear.  So you’re just putting silicone on top of silicone…. Which is a little silly, in my opinion.  Silicone is what makes a base a base and makes products apply on smoothly, so why more if you don’t need it?

I do think primer is fabulous on drier skin types; in fact I prefer it.  If for no other reason it makes the dry areas less visible, those flakes just seem to disappear — however you don’t need to buy one for dry skin if you have dry skin, any matte primer would do.  I also love it if you’re using a powder foundation as opposed to a liquid or  cream it makes the finish much smoother.

But is it necessary and a crucial step in make up application?  In my opinion…. No.

Questions?  Just ask!

Dear mL:

I really want to get some new makeup brushes, but I don’t have money to splurge on all these expensive brushes like MAC!  Drugstore ones seem to shed or don’t pick up much color.  Help!

Sylvia

Dear Sylvia,

I feel your pain.  Make up brushes are incredibly expensive items, and important to your routine.  My best recommendation?  Go to your local crafts store.  My eyeliner brush is from there, and it works better than anything I’ve picked up from MAC or otherwise.  They are high quality, yet inexpensive.  Very similar to high end make up brushes in my experience.  Don’t listen to those make up snobs who tell you they are not good quality — any former art major *ahem*me*ahem* would tell you they are great quality, durable, last years, and are affordable.   They’re anywhere from around $3, to $12.  I definitely recommend checking it out!!

Dear mL:

I see so many different tutorials on YouTube and online, and I was wondering what the right order is to apply make up?  Do you do foundation before or after your eye make up?  Do you do concealer before or after foundation?

Thanks!

(Multiple readers)

Dear readers:

I always find it interesting that people think there is one specific rule for when to apply what part of your make up.  Quite frankly, there are no rules to make up.  It’s not like hair color, where different developers give you different outcomes — there are ample possibilites at your fingertips!

Some people like to apply their foundation after their eyeshadow.  The benefits of this would include that you can easily clean up any eyeshadow fall-out without messing up your foundation.  I personally like to put my foundation on after just for that simple fact.  However, some people prefer to put it on before hand because it’s easier for them.  Whatever’s clever.

Here are my personal “rules” that I do recommend following, however, just for ease of application!

• Apply eyeshadow base around your nose prior to applying foundation.  This area rubs off the easiest!  I use Urban Decay’s Primer Potion (the original) very lightly.  It helps keep my foundation on all day!
• Apply blush (rouge) after your foundation, but before face powder.  Sometimes you’ll put on too much blush — it’s natural, it happens.  While we can try to apply it lightly at first and make it darker gradually, sometimes it doesn’t happen.  If we apply the powder first, you’ll just have to apply more powder to lighten it up — which can make your face look ridiculously cakey.  If you apply the blush before powder, however, it will blend and soften the lines of the blush easier!
• Always, always, always apply concealer after foundation.  Why?  Because of two simple reasons.  1. Foundation already gives some coverage, you’ll be using more concealer than necessary if you apply it first!  2.  When you apply foundation after concealer, you’re rubbing off a lot of the concealer, and thus using too much product.
• Lipliner BEFORE lipstick.  Though I think that’s pretty obvious!  It helps keep the lipstick on better and keep it from bleeding.
• Eyeshadow primer before eyeshadow, eyeshadow before eyeliner, eyeliner before mascara.  Otherwise the shadow covers the liner and mascara.  Ew.

Other than that, I don’t see any reason why to do one thing before another.  The wonderful thing about make up is that it’s a form of self-expression, so express yourself freely!  Apply however you want, and however you feel comfortable doing it!

Dear mL:

I’m like you — incredibly pale, and unable to find a match in foundation.  Some drug store brands have a match, but I hate that I have to take it home to try it out, and if it doesn’t work, I’m S.O.L.  What are your recommendations of brands that porcelain beauties like myself can try out?

Thanks!
Allison

Dear Allison (and readers),

That’s an excellent question, really.  I myself have searched for years to find a pale foundation that worked for me; most are far too dark, and even MAC foundations don’t work on me (which is a bummer, since I think their finishes are often gorgeous).  I’ve had success with a few brands, and by a few, I mean a few.  There’s not much out there for ladies like us — we don’t get the respect we deserve from cosmetic companies, at least in my opinion.  Also, I’m going to write for those bronzed and dark-skinned lovelies who have the same sort of issue — finding a foundation that doesn’t look silly and ashy on the skin!

Nixie is my first choice.  The prices are affordable, the color selection is fabulous!  They have quite the selection of undertones for skin, from the most pale to the darkest of skintones.  My personal favorites?  The full coverage cream foundation, and the even skin silicone foundation!  Since the even skin silicone foundation contains silicone (silica derivative), it helps to keep you with a natural and un-oily finish all day.  How can one beat that?  The cream foundation is great for a concealer, if you don’t want to use it as a foundation all over your face, and it’s also waterproof!

Next, a super favorite, Make Up For Ever!  Their foundations are downright fabulous, but definitely on the pricey side!  Their color range is excellent, and they have some of the best formulations I have ever encountered.  I keep their mat+ velvet in my kit for if I’m going to be anywhere near the water (don’t let the swatches on the site scare you, they’re lighter than they appear.  Here are the swatches from the official website!).  The stuff is waterproof and it helps keep my skin even!

Dior foundations also go to the very pale shades all the way to the darker shades, however, I must admit they are definitely on the pricey side — which I can’t bring myself to pay.  The finishes are wonderful on pretty much all of them, and most contain SPF, a definite bonus for everyday wear!  I love the Diorskin Forever make up which is a long-wear foundation, and Diorskin Nude which gives a nice and natural finish.

After that…. I’m at a loss.  Really, I haven’t found much.  People say Bare Escentuals, but we all know I’m not a fan of the brand, plus their shades on darker skin are downright awful, and ashy, thanks to the amount of titanium dioxide in the product.

My recommendation will almost always be that you go to your local cosmetics counter, and have them try foundations for you.  They’ll ask you a series of questions regarding coverage and finish, plus they’ll match it for you.  More often than not they’ll even let you take home a sample so you can see if it’s something that you’ll really want!

I hope I at least assisted some for you all

(Please send any questions to molly.loretta@gmail.com! I will answer them in a timely fashion, and most of them will be post them in order to help you, and my other readers!)

Dear mL:

What is the purpose of a toner, what does it really do?
This is an excellent question that has perplexed many people for ages.  I don’t know how many times I’ve gone to a salon to be told after a facial that I need to use a toner, yet very rarely would a cosmetologist or esthetician actually tell me what the purpose of a toner was.

Really, a toner is supposed to help reduce your pH.  After cleansing, your face’s pH is higher than it normally is (it is regularly a 4.5-5.5 on a pH scale, which goes from 1 to 14).  The heat and cleansing agents are what causes the pH to raise, and the toner helps to safely get back to that proper setting on the scale; allowing skin to reduce pH on it’s own can at times cause your skin to be dehydrated (not dry).

I’ve researched many toner ingredients and am incredibly disappointed — so many contain skin irritating ingredients that it’s nauseating — no wonder my face would always be red after toning!  A main toning ingredient is witch hazel, you can pick up a bottle of witch hazel at your local super market or Wal-Mart or Target easily — I was using this alone for quite some time (it doesn’t irritate too many people, and if my sensitive skin can handle it I think it’s safe to say most others can too!).  It’s very affordable, easy to transport, and comes in a big plastic bottle that lasts for ages.  It’s also nice that it helps as an antibacterial to kill acne causing bacteria.  Woo!

If you’re willing to shell out a little more money, the only toner I’ve ever found that has a ton of skin soothing agents and moisture binding agents in it is Bioelement’s Calmitude Hydrating Solution (I love Bioelements, so you’ll hear me rave about them a lot in regards to skincare, they’ve literally saved my skin!).  Bioelements is a line created by leading estheticians, and this particular product is directed at those with sensitive skin.  I believe that we should all treat our skin as though it’s sensitive, just because it’s easier to care for, and to keep it from getting too many chemicals on it.

I hope that answers some questions, I know that toning has been an age old question.  If there are any others, don’t forget to e-mail me!  I would love to research and help you all out.