Disclaimer:  No, I am not affiliated with Coastal Scents.  No, I do not personally care about the personal issue between Erica and Coastal Scents — it is between them, and irrelevant to this post.  This post is strictly about the use of silica microspheres in or as a cosmetic, not companies that sell them.  Thanks.

I’m sure at this point in time that many of you cosmetic enthusiasts have seen this particular video on YouTube.  I saw it over a week ago, among looking for reviews on different silica powders from different websites so that I can bring you, my readers, the best there is.

This video, and the links listed, are causing quite a scare — and for no necessary reason.  I’ve decided to research the use of silica in cosmetics to bring you the most up-to-date information.  Now, you may ask, why did I bother to do that?

Because I personally do not believe the FDA or OSHA would allow so much silica in cosmetics if it were dangerous; it would be a lawsuit waiting to happen from make up artists who use the product regularly (basically, even a long term MAC employee would have lung issues since it’s an prominent ingredient in their Studio Fix powder and foundation).  Let alone would they allow Make Up For Ever to release a 100% silica powder.  As a cosmetologist, we have to learn extensive knowledge regarding OSHA, and there is just no way this would be approved in as many cosmetic products as it is.  (The FDA regulates any known carcinogens, and they are NOT allowed to be ingredients in cosmetics!  Silica microspheres [or just silica, in general, like silica, silicone, dimethicone, etc.] is NOT a regulated ingredient!  If an ingredient has not been tested for safety and is in a product, it is required to put “Warning: The safety of this product has not been tested” visible on the label to be sold in the USA.)

Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty, shall we?

The first thing I noticed that was inaccurate regarding the information is they are talking about crystalline form silica — not the silica used in cosmetics (silica approved for use in cosmetics is microspheres, a round formation of silica).  Crystalline silica and silica microspheres are not even processed the same, so no, they do not later come into contact with each other and contaminate the finished product.  The main concern for silicosis comes down to the industrial workers who handle mass quantities of crystalline silica; from my research they are required to wear masks in order to protect themselves.

Another thing that bothered me regarding the video is that there is no definitive answer on how much silica one would have to inhale to get silicosis.  Any sort of research that was wholeheartedly taken on this particular stand would have that information — and information I cannot find, which makes any silica in cosmetics claim of being dangerous completely unwarranted.

Now, why is this?  Because the type of silica used in cosmetics is completely different than the type of silica that is a known carcinogen.  (2)

Next, if silica is such a problem, why don’t we see an issue with silicone?  Silicone is derived from silica, and is a prominent ingredient in every single foundation primer, eyeshadow primer, and even some foundations.  Plus, it’s the main constituent of sand — wouldn’t we be screwed just by going to the beach?

Then there is the reference of Wikipedia.  I have nothing against Wikipedia, and it’s a great way to get information about pop culture — but as most of us know, Wikipedia is never necessarily true.  Any single person can register and change information on any page without citing their sources and whether or not the information is valid.

Next, let’s examine the uses of silica in cosmetics — why do we use them, anyway?

The role silica plays in cosmetics is that it absorbs sweat and oil, keeping your skin from becoming a nasty grease slick and assists in keeping your make up on your face for a longer period of time.  The spherical type of silica improves the smoothness and spread of your foundation or powder (mind you, spherical silica is the only type approved by OSHA and the FDA for use in cosmetics).  It’s probably one of the top oil absorbors, and just look — you’ll most likely find it in the powder you’re using.  (It’s also one of the top 3 minerals found on earth!)

Now, why does it say in the video you cannot use them without mixing?

The main intent is to mix your silica with another product to make your own mineral powder foundation, silica will improve the wear of your foundation, and when you wear a powder…. Well, we all know that they aren’t the longest wearing of substances.  Can you use it alone?  Of course, but it’s not the intent that it’s sold with (at least not on Coastal Scents).

The type of silica used in cosmetics is in the amorphous form, which means there is no clear order to the formation of atoms, unlike crystalline silica, where there is a clear form to the order of the atoms. (4)  In other words, the type of silica that causes cancer (crystalline silica) is not even the same chemical make up as silica microspheres (the kind approved for use in cosmetics).

According to the Cosmetics Database: Silica is the most common constituent of sand. Fine silica, typically used in industrial applications and inhaled by workers, is associated with a wide range of disorders. In cosmetics for skin use, regular sand presents little, if any risk to people. Because the particles might be finely ground down for use in a product that might be inhaled (such as a facial powder), the inhalation scores reflect the underlying data.

I can’t wait until this is brought to the attention of Paula Begoun, as she will just tear into this — and she has far more connections than I do, and will be able to thoroughly get deep down into this topic for us.  When she posts any information, you can bet that I will post it here.

So, what’s the consensus?  The type of silica in cosmetics is safe for use since it is in spherical form, different from the known carcinogens and issues behind the previously mentioned video (research shows silica microspheres are SAFE!).  Use silica freely, there’s no skin issues what-so-ever unless you have an allergic reaction, which would be very unique to you and few other users.

Hope I helped, readers!  XOXO

Added information 3/18/2009:

I recently came across an article stating the uses and researches regarding silica in cosmetics are out-dated and unfair to the cosmetic industry.  It’s from a dermatologist (I’ve had a lot of fun reading about silica and dermatology, did you know that they have replaced it as an emulsifier in many moisturizers?!  Fantastic!), and it’s a very interesting read.  I’m going to include the link for you all so you can get some extra information.

“Basic Silica is silicon dioxide or SiO2, it occurs in a crystalline state, an amorphous (shapeless) state and in impure forms such as quartz, opal and sand. It is the primary constituent of the Earth’s crust. It is usually found in the form of silicates. Silicones are synthetic polymers and are made by combining oxygen and silicon in high temperatures and pressures. In cosmetics the crystalline form of silica is being avoided for health and safety reasons and only the amorphous forms and silicates are being used….“  (Make sure you read the last paragraph, it’s very crucial to the information I’ve provided here!)

Sources:
1.  http://www.chemistryquestion.com/English/Questions/ChemistryInDailyLife/40c_silica_cosmetics.html
2.  http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/docs/2006-110/
3.  http://www.priorartdatabase.com/IPCOM/000133571/
4.  http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=948
5.  http://www.cosmeticsdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705911&nothanks=1

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