I figured I’d get this out of the way now, because that PETA list always bothers me.  Many companies are not on the list, because they don’t claim to say that their ingredients were not tested on animals, because for the most part, many companies don’t know.  (L’Oreal for example does not test the finished product on animals, but it doesn’t say the ingredients on the way to getting there weren’t because they’re not sure — as written to me by a L’Oreal rep.)  Chances are, somewhere down the line, an ingredient from that cosmetic you’re using at some point was tested on animals.

This is straight from the FDA/CFSAN website.

“Some cosmetic companies promote their products with claims such as ‘CRUELTY-FREE’ or ‘NOT TESTED ON ANIMALS’ in their labeling or advertising. The unrestricted use of these phrases by cosmetic companies is possible because there are no legal definitions for these terms.

Some companies may apply such claims solely to their finished cosmetic products. However, these companies may rely on raw material suppliers or contract laboratories to perform any animal testing necessary to substantiate product or ingredient safety. Other cosmetic companies may rely on combinations of scientific literature, non-animal testing, raw material safety testing, or controlled human-use testing to substantiate their product safety.

Many raw materials, used in cosmetics, were tested on animals years ago when they were first introduced. A cosmetic manufacturer might only use those raw materials and base their “cruelty-free” claims on the fact that the materials or products are not ‘currently’ tested on animals.”

Maybe “no new testing on animals” is a more accurate claim, eh?

The only safe way is to make sure these companies are currently not testing the products on animals, or asking for the ingredients to be tested (if the manufacturers test on the animals, there is no requirement to tell the company they’re selling it to, or being honest about it).  Proctor and Gamble is the only company that is well-known to test finished products on animals — so I recommend avoiding products by them (such as Cover Girl, Johnson & Johnson, etc).  However, companies such as Estee Lauder, L’Oreal, and their affiliates (which is quite the list, including MAC, Bobbi Brown, Jane, Lancome and Maybelline) do not test finished products on animals.

For more information on the FDA/CFSAN, please visit their website at http://www.cfsan.fda.gov.  Unfortunately, any company can claim to be cruelty-free; there’s no regulations or law about it because as stated above, there are no legal definitions of these terms.

Someone recently posted a comment about this, and aluminum being linked to cancer (and I think most of us remember the titanium dioxide scare), and also the safety of parabens.  So I decided -again- to do the research for my readers.

Where shall we start?  Let’s start with Titanium Dioxide, since it was the first scare to come about.

Titanium dioxide is a chemical compound (again, there’s a lot of these in cosmetics, then again water is also a chemical compound!) found in deodorants giving them their white color.  It’s also a sunscreen to help protect your delicate skin from the sun’s harmful rays.  It is important to know what the very specific evidence was leading titanium dioxide to be a carcinogen.

Inhalation.

“With such widespread use of titanium dioxide, it is important to understand that the IARC conclusions are based on very specific evidence. This evidence showed that high concentrations of pigment-grade (powdered) and ultrafine titanium dioxide dust caused respiratory tract cancer in rats exposed by inhalation and intratracheal instillation*. The series of biological events or steps that produce the rat lung cancers (e.g. particle deposition, impaired lung clearance, cell injury, fibrosis, mutations and ultimately cancer) have also been seen in people working in dusty environments. Therefore, the observations of cancer in animals were considered, by IARC, as relevant to people doing jobs with exposures to titanium dioxide dust. For example, titanium dioxide production workers may be exposed to high dust concentrations during packing, milling, site cleaning and maintenance, if there are insufficient dust control measures in place. However, it should be noted that the human studies conducted so far do not suggest an association between occupational exposure to titanium dioxide and an increased risk for cancer.”  (1)

Unless you’re powdering your deodorant and inhaling it, you should be completely fine with titanium dioxide.  Again, it’s the workers who are milling and creating this chemical compound that are exposed to the hazard.  It is listed as a safe pigment, with no known adverse effects.  It is not listed as a carcinogen, mutagen, teratogen, comedogen, toxin or as a trigger for contact dermatitis in any other safety regulatory publications beside the NIOSH (Antczak, 2001; Physical & Theoretical Chemical Laboratory, Oxford University respectively). It is reasonable to conclude then, that titanium dioxide is not a cancer-causing substance and is generally safe for use in foods, drugs, paints and cosmetics. (2)

The time to worry about titanium dioxide is when it is in micronized pigments in sunscreens.  If the size is small enough, it can penetrate the cells and cause DNA damage, however, since titanium dioxide is considered a pigment and colorization, the FDA does have to approve it (along with any other color additives; for example if you see on a cosmetic it is “safe for eye use only” it was most likely only tested on that area).

These are what a product goes through for testing (and they test each and every batch using pigment):

• Approval. All color additives used in cosmetics (or any other FDA-regulated product) must be approved by FDA. There must be a regulation specifically addressing a substance’s use as a color additive, specifications, and restrictions.
• Certification. In addition to approval, a number of color additives must be batch certified by FDA if they are to be used in cosmetics (or any other FDA-regulated product) marketed in the U.S.
• Identity and specifications. All color additives must meet the requirements for identity and specifications stated in the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR).
• Use and restrictions. Color additives may be used only for the intended uses stated in the regulations that pertain to them. The regulations also specify other restrictions for certain colors, such as the maximum permissible concentration in the finished product.(3)

Next, let’s move onto aluminum, specifically in the use of anti-perspirants and deodorants (no, they are not the same!).

In 2002, the results of a study looking for a relationship between breast cancer and underarm antiperspirants/deodorants were reported. This study did not show any increased risk for breast cancer in women who reported using an underarm antiperspirant or deodorant. The results also showed no increased breast cancer risk for women who reported using a blade (nonelectric) razor and an underarm antiperspirant or deodorant, or for women who reported using an underarm antiperspirant or deodorant within 1 hour of shaving with a blade razor. These conclusions were based on interviews with 813 women with breast cancer and 793 women with no history of breast cancer.

Findings from a different study examining the frequency of underarm shaving and antiperspirant/deodorant use among 437 breast cancer survivors were released in 2003. This study found that the age of breast cancer diagnosis was significantly earlier in women who used these products and shaved their underarms more frequently. Furthermore, women who began both of these underarm hygiene habits before 16 years of age were diagnosed with breast cancer at an earlier age than those who began these habits later. While these results suggest that underarm shaving with the use of antiperspirants/deodorants may be related to breast cancer, it does not demonstrate a conclusive link between these underarm hygiene habits and breast cancer.

In 2006, researchers examined antiperspirant use and other factors among 54 women with breast cancer and 50 women without breast cancer. The study found no association between antiperspirant use and the risk of breast cancer; however, family history and the use of oral contraceptives were associated with an increased risk of breast cancer.  (4) <–Please visit that source of Cancer.gov for more information, and more sources.  I figured a cancer website would be the best to accurately give you information, since, well, that’s what they deal with!

“According to the National Cancer Institute (NCI), the breast cancer-antiperspirant myth first appeared in the form of an e-mail in the 1990s, and continues to resurface and recirculate about every year or so. The false information suggests that antiperspirants contain harmful substances, which can be absorbed through the skin or can enter the body near the breasts through nicks in the skin caused by shaving. The e-mails also suggested that antiperspirants keep a person from “sweating out toxins,” resulting in the spread of cancer-causing toxins via the lymph nodes.

But the NCI says that no existing scientific or medical evidence links the use of underarm antiperspirants or deodorants to the subsequent development of breast cancer. The FDA, the Mayo Clinic, the American Cancer Society (ACS), and the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association agree. Razor nicks may increase the risk of skin infection, but not cancer.

According to the ACS, sweat glands are not connected to the lymph nodes. Most cancer-causing substances are removed by the kidneys, are released through urine or by the liver, and are eliminated with feces. The ACS says that lymph nodes may help to clear some toxins from the body, but they do not release these toxins through sweating. Sweat is not a significant route for eliminating toxins from the body.

And a study of 813 women with breast cancer and 703 women with no history of breast cancer, published in the October 2002 issue of the Journal of the National Cancer Institute, found that antiperspirants do not cause breast cancer.

Some speculate that the myth could have been started by women being told not to wear antiperspirants or deodorants before a mammogram. They were told this, not for safety reasons, but because residue from these products appearing in the X-ray is often mistaken for an abnormality in the breast.” (5)

There’s no conclusive evidence to show that these women are more likely to get breast cancer.  If aluminum somehow soaked in through skin, I would imagine there would be more cancer and alzheimer’s (another thing said to be caused by aluminum, read below) in people who work with aluminum and aluminum compounds on a regular basis — such as chefs, airplane mechanics, aluminum siding salesmen, etc.  Let’s remember that deodorants and antiperspirants are not listed as a cosmetic, but listed as an over the counter drug, meaning that the FDA does actually keep track of this product (read the #5 source), same as they do with things like Ex-Lax, or Tylenol, or Advil.

There’s always the alzheimer’s question as well, why do alzheimers patients have higher levels of aluminum in their brains than we who do not have alzheimer’s do?  It is not because the aluminum compounds accumulating time damage the cells.  It’s because the cells affected by alzheimer’s are unable to fight off and rid itself of toxins like the rest of our bodies can.

If you all have any other questions, do not hesitate to comment and contact me — I will do my best to obtain the information for you!  Now, I leave you with this sweet quiz provided by the FDA about cosmetics, and how much do we really know!  I passed the quiz with flying colors!  Will you?

So, I’ve decided that since a lot of people have been complaining about the swatches on the Nixie website, I’d take some pictures and swatch ‘em myself on here for you guys!  I don’t have them ALL done; I have more Ultra Pearls, Eyeshadows, Lipsticks, AND Lipglosses I need to swatch for you all, but it’s a start.

See right up there where I have links for everything?  Click on ALBUMS and it will take you to where you need to go!

I’ll let you know when I get to uploading more, I promise I’ll upload the rest soon!

Recently there’s been a huge argument towards all natural or “organic” products against man-made or synthetic ingredients (IE: preservatives).

But, we have an issue, I mean, what even makes a product organic or all natural?  Bare Escentuals and many other mineral cosmetics claim their products are all-natural, and while bismuth oxychloride may made up of natural elements, the process it takes to get to the end result that is in your cosmetic is far from natural.

Preservatives seem to be the biggest complaint regarding all-natural cosmetics.  Many organic cosmetics still contain preservatives.  Why?  Obviously to preserve your make up!  They’re there to keep your make up from  having an expiration date (Bare Escentuals has an expiration date, I’m sure other mineral brands do as well).  There’s no definitive shelf-life for a cosmetic containing preservatives, so they tend to last a lot longer.

“But mL, what about all the allergies they say we have to synthetic ingredients like preservatives?!”

Less than 5% of people in any study I’ve read about showed any sign of a reaction to preservatives.  That’s considerably less than the over-all number of people who have a negative reaction to mineral make up.

Plus, look how many people who are allergic to things like mold, and pollen — those are all natural, yet people still have allergies to them.  There’s no way to say that a product being all-natural will keep you from getting an allergic reaction.  How about poison ivy?  That’s a natural plant, yet the oils from this plant cause major irritation to skin.

Speaking of mold, the preservatives are there to keep things like that, fungus, and bacteria at bay.  There’s no natural ingredient that’s able to do all of that!  Without preservatives, organic ingredients -especially in a liquid compound- would be very, very, very unstable.

Please feel free to read my blog about parabens (preservatives) just by clicking here.

Then of course there’s the ever-present issue that any product can claim to be organic, or all-natural, and there’s no regulations on it.  It’d be really hard to put a regulation on it though, because would you include compounds that were made of all-natural materials, but had a very unnatural process of getting to the end result, or would that not be included?  Our options for what could be in make up would be very, very minimal.

“mL!  You’re forgetting about the environment and that those ingredients are BAD for it!”

No, I’m not.  Realistically the “harmful” ingredients in cosmetics, as long as they are used and disposed of as directed, there’s no harm.  Really, there’s no argument in it at all.

Skin irritants are everywhere, both in natural and “unnatural” products (though, the unnatural products are made of natural things, through an “unnatural” process that takes it to the end result).  It seems that many products that claim to be all-natural and organic are the ones that have more skin irritating ingredients than the rest.  I’ve had very few issues with many liquid foundations, aside from whether or not they keep my oilies at bay and how well they wear, I’ve never had a horrid allergic reaction to them the way I have with “all natural” products such as mineral cosmetics.

“How can I tell if my product is REALLY organic and natural?”

Google the ingredients, see the process those ingredients go through to get to where they’re at — chances are, the process is very unnatural.  Just because it says it contains organic and natural materials doesn’t mean that any of it is good for your skin.  There’s a lot of fruit and vegetables we could just put on our skin, because it’s organic and natural, but it doesn’t mean they’re really going to do anything for it.  “Organic” and “natural” have little, if anything, to do with good skincare.

I only need one source for this (seeing as this article sites sources).  Thanks, Paula!

I’ll try to recommend products of the same type from a couple of different brands, because I know we don’t have everything available to us at our particular locations (I live in Iowa, so I very rarely have much of anything available to me if I don’t travel or order it).  Mostly, I’ll be naming items by Nixie and MAC (just because I’m most familiar with those two brands).

To start out with, every person should have a good foundation.  Unfortunately, we all have different skin types so it’s hard to say what each person should use.  I’m the type of person who likes a more natural-matte finish.  I find the foundations tend to wear better, and longer, and they provide moderate coverage.  Of course, you’ll need the proper brush with your foundation, so I’ll give you all my recommendations with each foundation as well!  My recommendations:
Nixie Oil-Free Foundation — Some people have problems with this because it is a bit runnier than the average foundation.  However, when it dries, you get a really great amount of coverage.  I recommend using this brush by Sonia Kashuk to buff it easily into your skin without getting a streaky look.
MAC Studio Fix Fluid — A few people do break out from MAC foundations, so this won’t be for everyone (and pale ladies like me — beware!  The shades don’t go light enough for me but I absolutely adore the texture).  This one is great to use a stippling brush like the MAC 187.  If you don’t want to shell out the money for that particular brush, hit up your local Kohl’s.  They sell one very similar by Flirt!
MAC Studio Sculpt — This also gives a natural matte finish, and is absolutely gorgeous and I think it wears a little bit better than the Studio Fix Fluid. The 187 brush also works wonderful for this, or they have a powder brush that I love for foundation, the 109 brush.
Revlon Colorstay — They have one formulated for oily skin, and one for dry. I prefer the one for normal/dry skin as the finish is better, and the foundation is a little creamer (plus the one for normal/oily skin kind of smells like paint thinner). A foundation brush would work wonderful for this, here’s one from Nixie and one from MAC.
Some people also enjoy mineral make up. Personally, I’m pretty picky. My skin reacts awfully to bismuth oxychloride, a common ingredient in mineral foundations. Pur Minerals doesn’t have as much of it, plus it applies a little smoother so I recommend that, and Nixie’s loose powder. They’re the only two I have personally tried and liked the coverage. Otherwise, I recommend going to your local Sephora, MAC (they have three different types), or Ulta to try it out, and wear a mineral foundation for a day and see how your skin feels.

Next, you’ll need a good finishing powder.  You want something that will set your foundation for the day, and something for touch ups.  We all know I’m in love with silica powder, so read my blog about where to get them here!  Otherwise I love L’Oreal’s True Match powder (available at Ulta or any drug store).

Two blush shades are ideal for anyone starting their make up kit.  Really, different lipsticks will look better with certain blushes, and same goes with what you’re doing with your eye make up.  Everyone should have a nude color (even a bronzer would work), and everyone should have a nice pink color.
For pink, I recommend Elegance by Nixie or Dollymix by MAC.
For a nude, you have to be careful with your skintone.  Obviously, depending on how light and dark your skin is, you may want to edit this and use a different color.  I like Nixie’s Faithful, or MAC’s Buff or Blushbaby (I love both!  Go try ‘em each out )

Of course, then you also need an eyeshadow base.  As we all know, I love Urban Decay Primer Potion.  Make sure you watch the tutorial on how to get all the use out of your product!

Everyone should have four basic eyeshadows.
Leche from Nixie — a creamy, white-beige.  OR Shroom from MAC — a soft beige.
Manhattan from Nixie — a shimmery gray with a hint of taupe.  OR Satin Taupe from MAC — a shimmery taupe.
L.A. from Nixie — a medium gold.  OR Woodwinked from MAC — a medium gold.
Voodoo from Nixie — matte black.  OR Carbon from MAC — matte black.

Two basic lipsticks would include a classic red lipstick, then of course a nude lipstick!
Bourgeous from Nixie OR Honeylove from MAC — a matte nude color.
Babydoll from Nixie OR Faux from MAC — a neutral sort of dusty pink with slight shimmer.
Daniella from Nixie OR Russian Red from MAC OR Viva Glam I from MAC — different reds!

Then of course, we can’t forget a good gloss!  I like a nude gloss, then a wonderful red gloss to go over my red lipstick!
Candy from Nixie OR Prr from MAC.
Rosie from Nixie — it’s t he best red I’ve ever found from ANY company as far as lipgloss goes.

I’m not too picky, personally, as far as lipliner goes.  Whatever works with the lipstick, and twists up!  I  mean, really, who wants to carry a pencil sharpener around with them?

Edit 2\25\09:  Sorry guys, I left out concealer, eyeliner, and mascara, so I’ve added them now.  Thanks Jessica for bringing this to my attention!

Concealer is of course important for those of us who have things to hide, IE: acne or dark circles.
Nixie Full Coverage Foundation — it comes in a handy pot and I think it’s great.  Again, they’re really the only brand out there that is affordable and pale enough for my ridiculously fair skin (which I’ll explain in a blog later today).
MAC  Studio Finish Concealer SPF 35 — I’ve used this on myself, even if it was a tad too dark, and I adore the consistency.  It’s pretty thick stuff, and stays on for ever.  Plus, SPF 35 is great for our poor little eyes, which have the thinnest, most delicate tissue on our entire body!
MAC Studio Sculpt Concealer — I’ve only mildly played with this the other week when I went to Des Moines for the Motley Crue concert, but I think that it does have a more natural appearance than the Studio Finish, which makes me adore it.  Again, too dark even in the lightest shade for me to purchase, but for anyone who can I highly recommend this one.  Highly, highly, highly.  It looks so natural and covers so well!

Eyeliner is kind of essential.  It can play up a dramatic look, or simply make our lashes look fuller (what lady doesn’t want that?).  Obviously I like gel liners (some say cream, but really are technically gel), they tend to wear longer.  I’ll put my favorite pencil liner down as well though.  No, I’m not a huge fan of liquid.  Gets a tad bit too runny for me!
TIGI Cream Liner — supposedly discontinuing.  Bummer, because I love it.
MAC Fluidline
L’Oreal HIP Creme Liners — available at any drugstore.
Revlon Colorstay Liner — again, available at any drugstore.  I don’t like eyeliners I have to sharpen.

We all need mascara.  If you leave your house with nothing else, put on some mascara and a little lipgloss.  It’ll make you look more awake!
L’Oreal Voluminous (available at drugstores anyway)
Maybelline Lash Stylist — this one is great for you ladies with short lashes since it has a handy comb.  I would recommend wiping excess mascara off on a tissue (I have to every time, or it gets clumpy!) prior to applying.
Maybelline Volum’ Express Mascara — I use this over my Lash Stylist and love it.  Really, I do.  Plus affordable and typically Maybelline is BOGO at Ulta.  Can’t beat that!

I hope my ideas helped, ladies!